Tag: Cooking and Cookbooks

For New Yorkers, 6 p.m. Is the New 8 p.m.

I WAS EATING French fries at the Odeon when I noticed that a server had begun to repeatedly check in. “Oh,” I realized, “she needs the table back.” It was 6:22 p.m. The restaurant was full. Once, 11:40 p.m. had been “a little too early for Odeon,” according to “Bright Lights, Big City,” Jay McInerney’s […]

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The Endless Torment of the ‘Recipe?’ Guy

“It all boils down to people needing to remember there’s a person on the other side of the screen who deserves space and support, time and rest,” Mr. Sparks said. Credit…Andrea Chronopoulos Lucia Lee, a middle-school teacher in Brookline, Mass., posts photos of kimchi jjigae and seared mackerel to Instagram: neatly framed, overhead shots of […]

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Of Barbecues and Men: A Summer Storm Brews Over Virility in France

PARIS — It’s “la rentrée” in France, the back-to-school, return-to-normal month after the vacations that is often marked by renewed social conflict. But nobody expected France to be up in arms over barbecues. Barbecue has become the word on every front page, the subject of heated TV debates and the source of a crisis in […]

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The Fall Dining Scene

Restaurants scrapped printed menus and told diners to scan QR codes. Plexiglass partitions were installed between tables. Restaurants began selling more merchandise and even kitchen goods. Last fall, my colleagues in the Food section and I wrote about the changes to restaurants since the start of the pandemic. Looking at that list a year later, […]

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Moosewood, the Beloved Vegetarian Restaurant, Prepares for Its Second Act

ON A WARM evening earlier this summer, 16 of the 19 former owners of the Moosewood Restaurant in downtown Ithaca, N.Y. — widely acknowledged to be the country’s longest-running vegetarian restaurant — sat around three tables in its newly renovated main dining room and feasted on a flurry of family-style dishes. To start, there were […]

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Roland Mesnier, Pastry Chef to Five Presidents, Dies at 78

Roland Mesnier, the inventive White House pastry chef whose ambrosial and whimsical desserts briefly shifted the weight of office from the minds to the stomachs of beleaguered presidents, recalcitrant congressmen and balky diplomats, died on Friday at an assisted living home in Burke, Va. He was 78. The cause was complications of cancer, his son, […]

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The Public Life of the Kardashians’ Private Chef

On the penultimate episode of “Keeping Up With the Kardashians,” Kim Kardashian walked into a rental mansion on Lake Tahoe. “Did I not say no to these cookies?” she snapped, gesturing toward an artfully arranged display of homemade animal cookies. “Like, they have to be taken away. I gained 15 pounds!” “Like, this is a […]

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J. Kenji López-Alt’s Summer Staple? Guacamole With Grilled Corn

My thoughts in quick succession after seeing the word “esquimole” on the menu at Hasta la Madre, a new Mexican restaurant in the Usaquén neighborhood of Bogotá, Colombia: A ‌portmanteau of guacamole and esquites ‌ — grilled corn with mayonnaise, Cotija cheese‌‌ and chile powder — ‌sounds delicious. (It was.) Though I typically prefer my […]

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The Fried Chicken Inflation Index

If you are walking anywhere in London and spot Elijah Quashie, a.k.a. The Chicken Connoisseur, he would be grateful if you resist the urge to make a fuss. Do not shout “Chicken guy!” or ask him to record a happy birthday greeting to a friend on your mobile phone. If you have comments or questions, […]

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How the Chile Became Hot

Capsaicin triggers TRPV1 receptors, the same ones that are primed to recognize temperatures above 104 degrees Fahrenheit, a baseline that may qualify as a brutal summer day but is not quite hot enough to fry an egg on the sidewalk or literally burn you. (In 2016, a case was reported of a man whose esophagus […]

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Zucchini Time

Two weeks ago, we talked about tomatoes. Last week, we did corn. And so I realized it only makes sense to complete the peak-summer series and tackle zucchini this week. (This little ingredient series has turned out to be my “Godfather” trilogy, my Ring cycle, my “Chronicles of Narnia.”) While zucchini doesn’t quite inspire the […]

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How Some Ukrainians Are Starting Over

Oksana Dudyk scanned a small selection of ornamental plants lining the shelves of her new florist shop, recently opened in this city on Ukraine’s western frontier. Her eye landed on the perfect bloom for a new customer: fuchsia-colored primroses, vivid and lush, ideal for brightening an austere corner. It was late afternoon, and the flowers […]

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Jacques Pépin, in Search of Lost Cars and Cuisine

While the French famously obsess about the dilution of their culture at home, it is not unfair to say that their great nation’s cultural sway appears to have dwindled in the larger world as well. To give two examples that touch me where I live, the primacy of French cuisine — once regarded as the […]

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