Tag: Restaurants

Restaurant Review: At Last, a Restaurant With That New-Car Smell

The nice man who brought samples of the banoffee macaron to me and other customers one recent morning began, a few moments later, to gently buff the doors and windows of a new, rose-gold prototype car with a soft cloth. I could see this because the car and I were sharing a room on West […]

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New York Today: N.Y. Today: Single-Use Plastic Bags May Soon Be Banned

Weather: Still frigid — in the teens this morning with wind chills around zero. But a thaw is coming. A balmy 29 this afternoon, 45 tomorrow and a rainy 52 by Thursday. Alternate-side parking: in effect until Feb. 4. ImageThe governor wants to ban single-use plastic bags.CreditLibrado Romero/The New York Times Would you be banned […]

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April Bloomfield Closes Her Los Angeles Restaurant Hearth & Hound

The Hearth & Hound, the Hollywood restaurant opened by the chef April Bloomfield and the restaurateur Ken Friedman in 2017, closed after dinner service on Saturday night. Ms. Bloomfield, who made the announcement on the restaurant’s Instagram account, had acquired Mr. Friedman’s share of the Hearth & Hound last June, when their decade-long partnership was […]

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It Was a Sanctuary for Immigrants in the Bronx. Then One of Its Owners Was Arrested.

Offering traditional Mexican food and social justice conversations, La Morada in the South Bronx is equal parts restaurant and refuge. Run by an immigrant family from Oaxaca, it is home to both fresh tostadas and a community book exchange. The purple walls are adorned with posters denouncing deportations and neighborhood children’s art projects. And one […]

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Hungry City: At Joe’s Steam Rice Roll, Springy Noodles With a Loyal Following

Clouds hover in the corner of Joe’s Steam Rice Roll, inside a narrow mini-mall in Flushing, Queens. A single rice noodle fills a steaming tray as big as a newspaper, one broad sheet, wobbly like custard and so thin that it’s nearly see-through. A brandishing of two bowl scrapers, and it’s peeled from the metal, […]

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Eat: A Secret Ingredient Makes This Chef’s Galbijjim Perfect. Just Don’t Tell Mom.

No one makes better galbijjim than your mother, at least if she’s Korean and she’s following the usual script about this fragrant stew of short ribs and root vegetables. She boils the meat briefly, drains it off, then cooks it slowly in a pot filled with puréed Asian pear and mirin and soy sauce and […]

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Past Tense: How the Slice Joint Made Pizza the Perfect New York City Food

Pizza can be a great divider in New York. In fact, one of the easiest ways to get into argument (without end) is to name a “best pizza in the city.” But at the same time, pizza — specifically the reheated, foldable, portable slice — is one of the city’s great uniters. There is no […]

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Restaurant Review: Benno, Proudly Out of Step With the Age

Dated was the word one friend used after going to Benno, and if you’ve eaten there, too, you’ll know why. It’s as if the past 15 years in food never happened. The menu seems to be stuck in some time between 1994, when Thomas Keller bought the French Laundry, and 2004, when he opened Per […]

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Souen Was Populated by Dinosaurs and Served Twig Tea. I Loved It.

The news that the SoHo location of Souen is closing at the end of January has triggered strong responses — from me as well. That’s because the macrobiotic restaurant has Last Dodo status, and its demise hits upon a few key New York obsessions: real estate, food and people’s obsessions with their bodies. Oh, and […]

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Critic’s Notebook: A California Chef Learns to Swim in Changed Waters

SAN FRANCISCO — It was late fall, the start of Dungeness crab season, but too soon to melt the butter. Domoic acid, a neurotoxin produced by algae and linked to warming ocean waters, had recently been found in such high levels in local crabs that the commercial fishing season in parts of Northern California had […]

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Sunday Routine: How Ashley Eddie, Chef, Spends Her Sundays

In early 2015, Ashley Eddie started as a line cook at Santina, an Italian restaurant in Manhattan’s Meatpacking District. Within a year, she had caught the attention of one of the owners, Mario Carbone, who promoted her to sous chef. Last summer, she became the executive chef. Since taking over the kitchen, she has added […]

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Modern Love: He Had to Leave So I Could Breathe

Tony’s friend was all sharp angles, except for his laugh, which was soft and melodious. He had a gap between his front teeth and notched dimples in his cheeks. His eyebrows looked thick and jagged, as if they had been drawn on with Magic Marker. I disliked him immediately, which is to say, I liked […]

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Bites: In Providence, R.I., Bustle Gives Way to Simple Pleasures

ImageBlackback flounder brushed with carrot dashi, sesame and mirin.CreditJames Mark Rhode Island may be the smallest state, but its culinary scene is anything but small. From Cambodia to Cape Verde, Providence, R.I., restaurants span the globe in a big way. Big King is the latest restaurant in that city from James Mark, the chef-owner best […]

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Hungry City: Thai That Takes a Cue From Its Brooklyn Neighbors

Wun maprao onn — or Coconut Delight, as the Bangkok-born Jess Calvo of Thai Farm Kitchen in Kensington, Brooklyn, calls it — is “the most difficult dessert to make,” he said. “First, you have to find the right young coconut.” This was a slightly easier task when he lived with ready access to coconut trees, […]

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Australia Fare: Millbrook Winery, Outside Perth, Is a Locavore Wonderland

JARRAHDALE, Western Australia — The narrative is irresistible: a chef who grows almost every ingredient on your plate, who saves seeds from year to year, and coaxes beautiful meals from the same verdant land you gaze upon as you eat. This is the story of Millbrook Winery and its chef, Guy Jeffreys. Millbrook is on […]

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My Detox: The Three Simple Tonics That Sustain One of New York’s Busiest Chefs

In our series My Detox, T asks creative people to share the homemade recipes they count on to cleanse and refresh. Daniela Soto-Innes’s Brooklyn apartment might as well be an apothecary. On a recent afternoon in the plant-filled space of the 28-year-old chef — a co-owner of the hip New York Mexican restaurants Cosme and […]

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Restaurant Review: Hwaban Is the Modern Korean Restaurant Where You’d Take Your Mother

Americans who weren’t born into Korean cuisine have discovered it in many ways and many locales over the past decade or two. Bulgogi folded into tortillas has been handed out through the window of a roving truck. Smoked kimchi has been draped over pulled pork between halves of a cheese-glazed doughnut to make an outdoor […]

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Bangladeshi Food Is a Rarity Around New York. This Place Helps Fill the Void.

JERSEY CITY — One Monday afternoon in December, Nur-E Gulshan Rahman was perched on a hot-pink step stool, her body hunched over a boti, a steel cutting instrument she bought back in her native Bangladesh. Her face was inexplicably free of sweat as she sliced bulky calabazas into small diamonds. A large knife might suffice […]

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