Tag: Restaurants

Restaurant Review: A Full-Throated Defense of Traditional Indian Cooking

Something has been missing from New York’s current Indian restaurant scene, but I wasn’t sure what it was until I ate the kaleji masala at Adda Indian Canteen in Long Island City, Queens. Modernization is the theme unifying many of the Indian restaurants that have taken root around the city over the past few years. […]

Read More

Los Angeles Times Names Two Restaurant Critics to Replace Jonathan Gold

The Los Angeles Times has hired two restaurant critics to replace Jonathan Gold, the Pulitzer Prize-winning critic who died of pancreatic cancer in July, at 57. The job will be split between Bill Addison, 46, who has been the national restaurant critic for the website Eater since 2014, and Patricia Escárcega, 38, a food reporter […]

Read More

The 212: The 200-Year-Old Bar Beloved by Book Editors and Longshoremen

In this series for T, the author Reggie Nadelson revisits New York institutions that have defined cool for decades, from time-honored restaurants to unsung dives. On Sunday nights, when the house band plays jazz at the Ear Inn, a bar over by the Hudson River on Spring Street, the whole building shakes. In the little […]

Read More

Restaurant Review: Misi Is Much More Than a Pasta Restaurant

Almost everybody is calling Misi, the latest endeavor from the chef Missy Robbins, a pasta restaurant. That’s not quite right. Yes, Ms. Robbins has given half of her menu over to long noodles and short ones; strands of linguine with chopped garlic and a double dose of fish in the form of chopped anchovies and […]

Read More

Australia Fare: What Sydney Can Learn About Dining From Another Sunny City

It is staggering how much has changed for Los Angeles over the past six years. When I moved there in 2012, the city’s reputation was still overwhelmingly based on lazy clichés: that its supposed cultural vapidity carried over into its restaurants; that its Hollywood artifice bled into the lives and onto the plates of its […]

Read More

Restaurant Review: The New York Slice that Slices Through Tradition, at Mama’s Too

For most of its time on earth, the New York slice has not been seen as a product that needed tinkering. Yes, pizza in the city has been accessorized with toppings from crayfish (not bad) to Buffalo chicken (hmm) to Caesar salad (no, no, no, no, no). But the foldable, portable triangles of cheese, sauce […]

Read More

Hungry City: Sri Lankan Flavors in Abundance at Sagara

Cashews fill the platter, dozens, maybe hundreds, curled like shrimp and dark from the pan, hot buttery mouthfuls strafed with salt and roasted red chile powder. Curry leaves gleam, half-buried, fried and ready to snap, tasting of musk and charred lime. This is a generous — and dangerous — start to dinner at Sagara, opened […]

Read More

Bolivia Dispatch: It’s Dinnertime in the Amazon. Look What’s on the Chef’s Menu.

CACHICHIRA, Bolivia — The hunt began at nightfall under a crescent moon and with a chorus of frogs, which suddenly went silent when the rifles fired and the thrashing erupted. The bodies were dragged onto the deck of three boats: Six crocodilians were landed one night and 14 the next. Some were nearly eight feet […]

Read More

Buick and Yelp partner to offer restaurant reservations in cars, trucks, and crossovers

Cars that can nab you a table at a fancy restaurant are now an honest-to-goodness thing, thanks to Yelp and GM’s Buick. The two today announced that Yelp Reservations, Yelp’s online reservation management service, has joined Buick’s infotainment app store — the Buick Marketplace — courtesy of a recent update. It’s the first time Yelp Reservations […]

Read More

Restaurant Review: A Chef Draws a Map of the World, With Africa at the Center

Earlier this year Henry, a new restaurant in the lobby of the Life Hotel on West 31st Street, quietly died. You wouldn’t know it to look around the place on any recent night at 8, when a seamless playlist of hip-hop and R&B unspools as servers carry stacked beef ribs to what seems like every […]

Read More

Baroo Has Closed, but Leaves a Rare Culinary Legacy in Los Angeles

LOS ANGELES — In a Hollywood strip mall, with a cramped kitchen and a shoestring budget, the tiny restaurant Baroo brought a singular, experimental spirit to this city’s food scene. Shortly after Kwang Uh and Matthew Kim opened it in 2015, the restaurant critic Jonathan Gold endorsed Mr. Uh’s cooking in a review, praising his […]

Read More

Big City: How a Hugely Popular Pretzel Bun Became a Political Minefield

By virtue of its near constant appearance on Instagram, the pretzel bun on the burger at the Emily restaurants, as they are known, stands as a celebrity carbohydrate, and like all celebrities, it is both worshiped and detested. While it might seem that a bun would be the least politically contentious feature of a $26 […]

Read More

Hungry City: At Ajo y Orégano, Big Flavors Flow From a Small Space

If it’s Friday, there will be rabo encendido, oxtails dark as ink from a simmer in Presidente beer and Brugal rum. This is lunch and event at once, and may explain the crowd that forms before noon on the rainbow-planked porch outside Ajo y Orégano, a tiny gasp of a restaurant in Parkchester, the Bronx, […]

Read More

Australia Fare: Kisumé Promises Luxe Sushi in Melbourne, Mostly for Instagram

MELBOURNE, Australia — There is a certain sector of Australian dining that relies on trickle-down reputation — the idea that the prowess of one chef or flagship restaurant confers immediate status on every other related project. But rarely have I seen this concept contained within one restaurant, in one building. Kisumé, in Melbourne, is a […]

Read More

Restaurant Review: Chinese Noodles From a Chile-Haunted Region

The rise of Sichuan food in New York has made the past decade or two a glorious era for prowlers of Chinese restaurants. Chongqing chicken and mung-bean jelly proliferated as skilled chefs flocked to the city. But while the miles of dan dan noodles and mountains of Sichuan peppercorns have been exhilarating, they have tended […]

Read More

Southern Barbecue With a Fiery Dip and a Deep History

TOMPKINSVILLE, Ky. — This is the Southern barbecue you’ve probably never heard of. Not baby back ribs thickly crusted with spice rub and served “dry,” as it’s done in Memphis. Not slow-smoked chicken dipped in mayonnaise-based “white” barbecue sauce — a longstanding specialty of Decatur, Ala. Not even mutton, smoked the better part of a […]

Read More

Hungry City: Sharing the Food of an Ivorian Childhood at Paradis des Gouts

For years, Cheick Cisse was just one in a throng of cabdrivers congregating in the morning’s smallest, darkest hours at Ivoire, a bare-bones canteen in Harlem devoted to the food of Ivory Coast, the country where he was born. Then, in 2006, the owners of Ivoire, cabdrivers themselves, decided to move on. Mr. Cisse took […]

Read More