Tag: Restaurants

Restaurant Review: Tapping a Family Connection to Indonesian Food

If you ate at Spice Market before it closed two years ago, you may experience low-key but persistent flashbacks at Wayan, which set up shop in February on the east end of Spring Street in NoLIta. Again the flavors come from Asia and the methods, generally, from France. Again the far-off tropics are evoked through […]

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The Real Stars of the Internet

I’ve been to the bagel place down the street from my apartment maybe a hundred times. The staff is friendly. I like the food. They’re always open. Lots of people have their own opinions about it. Googling “Smith Street Bagels” produces pages of listings, most accompanied by star ratings visible right there in the results, […]

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It’s Time To Examine The Idea Of ‘Cultural Appropriation’ In Food

Getty Image It’s tough to pin down when the notion of “food appropriation” entered the public consciousness. Indian Country Today wrote about the topic in 2013, but mainstream outlets weren’t talking about it until years later. Regardless, it’s safe to say that the very definition of the phrase has been creating confusion since day one. […]

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A Young Chef, and a Stunning Comeback

By the age of 26, Kwame Onwuachi had already experienced the kind of head-spinning rise and fall that most chefs will never know in a lifetime. Growing up in a financially struggling family in the Bronx, Mr. Onwuachi was sent to Nigeria at age 10 to live with relatives because he kept misbehaving in school. […]

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Restaurant Review: Ramen Without Broth? A Chef Doubles Down on a Sidelined Dish

In 2012 and 2013, when people were lining up at Smorgasburg and then on the second floor of the Houston Street Whole Foods Market for biodegradable bowls of Yuji Haraguchi’s mazemen — noodles that might be dressed with crisped twigs of bacon and a jiggling onsen egg, say, or yuzu-cured salmon and some Camembert soft […]

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An Oasis for Brunch Thrives in the California Desert

YUCCA VALLEY, Calif. — The first time I drove east from Los Angeles to Flamingo Heights, I came to a stop behind a truck with a fairly blunt sticker on its sliding rear window: “Go Back to L.A.” It was a reminder that this rural town, just north of Joshua Tree National Park, has an […]

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A White Restaurateur Promoted ‘Clean’ Chinese Food. The Backlash Didn’t Take Long.

[What you need to know to start the day: Get New York Today in your inbox.] Arielle Haspel, a Manhattan nutritionist with a sleek social media presence, wanted to open the kind of Chinese restaurant, she said, where she and her food-sensitive clients could eat. One where the lo mein wouldn’t make people feel “bloated […]

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Frugal Traveler: Three Courses, 20 Euros: The Affordable Dining Renaissance in Paris

On a drizzly night in Paris, a crowd spilled out the door of Bouillon Julien and onto the slick sidewalk lining the rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis. The lure was a bargain-priced meal that promised to be surprising for both its quality and reasonable price: less than 20 euros, or about $23, for a three-course dinner […]

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Fluffy Japanese Soufflé Pancakes Have American Fans Waiting in Line

The Japanese soufflé pancake seems to defy pastry physics: An airy vanilla batter is cooked in a pan, which leaves it lightly toasted on each side and cloudlike in the center. As wobbly as fresh silken tofu and served in tall stacks, each cake manages to maintain its structure, even after it’s dressed with toppings […]

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Restaurant Review: With Haenyeo, a Trailblazing Korean Chef Turns to Seafood

Looking around Haenyeo’s dining room one night in early March, I thought maybe Jenny Kwak’s time has finally come. Her third restaurant, Haenyeo was about three months old and already filled with people who looked as if they’d been going there for years. It sits on a prime corner lot, on a stretch of Fifth […]

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City Kitchen: This Is Peak Potato

In Switzerland, they eat a lot of potatoes. Every time I’ve visited, I’ve eaten a lot of potatoes, too. I remember joining friends for a simple farmhouse supper in the countryside. We had boiled potatoes and green salad from the garden. It was a fine meal. You’ll find potato salad, potato gratins and mashed potatoes […]

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Hungry City: Simply Cooked Seafood Turns Luxurious at Taverna Kos

An important omission on the menu at Taverna Kos in Astoria, Queens, is the enormous plate of feta you may see passing your table en route to a smarter party of people. Heaps of the imported cheese, which the restaurant buys in 28-pound containers, come flecked with dried oregano and slicked with olive oil, and […]

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Restaurant Review: The TV Chef Rocco DiSpirito Returns, With a Quieter Touch

I’m starting to think the American cult of chef worship may really be on the way out. At the very least, it has paused to catch its breath. Since the seven-story food court in Hudson Yards was unveiled last month, the public reaction has been somewhere between shrug and ugh. Attitudes may improve as visitors […]

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McDonald’s Will Not Lobby Against Minimum Wage Increases, Official Says

In an abrupt shift, a top McDonald’s official said Tuesday that the company would no longer lobby against minimum-wage increases at the federal, state or local levels. The announcement, which was simultaneously cheered by supporters of higher pay and criticized as a publicity stunt by some in the restaurant industry, was included in a letter […]

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Can Food Tours Stray From the Beaten Path Without Ruining the Experience?

In the remote coastal villages of Russia’s Far East, where the nomadic Chukchi still hunt walrus with handcrafted ivory-headed harpoons, it is ritual to offer visitors freshly caught meat. “You cannot refuse,” said Barbara Muckermann, the chief marketing officer of Silversea Cruises, whose ships dock in the region several times a year. “Sharing food is […]

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