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Each spring, the global watch industry sets its sights on one moment: the annual Watches & Wonders fair (the New York Fashion Week of watches). For the event, retailers, media, and collectors flock to Geneva to be the first to experience the newest timepieces from top brands and get a pulse on the latest trends, we can expect to see for the launches that will continue to roll out through the remainder of the year. The week of the fair is jam-packed—a whirlwind of watches upon watches that quickly blur together into one collective timekeeper. But as the dust settles, a few models rise to the surface, and specific colors, textures, shapes, and concepts emerge. At the start of 2024, you may remember our predictions for the trends we anticipated and hoped to see. Now, in the wake of a massive influx of new models into the market, the results are in. And guess what? We nailed some significant themes we’re seeing across the industry.

Accessible Sizing: Hermes Cut

In 2021, Hermes unveiled a new flagship collection called the H08. With a sporty design incorporating materials like graphene composite and DLC-coated titanium and a larger 39mm build, the model took on a more masculine edge. This year, the brand shifted its focus on its female client base with a more modestly sized counterpart to the H08—enter the Hermes Cut. While the Cut is marketed as a women’s watch, the base model is firmly unisex. It features a 36mm case (possibly the most accessible size a watch can be) and a classic stainless steel construction, available on a bracelet or rubber strap. The bracelet version is incredibly versatile and effortless daily wear, while the other variations get a more feminine twist with two-tone options or diamonds. 

Collaborations: Vacheron Constantin x Yiqing Yin Egerie

Vacheron Constantin is no stranger to collaborative work. The brand recently partnered with the Metropolitan Museum on a collection of timepieces featuring renderings of famous works of art. However, the brand went a more traditional route for this most recent collaboration, tapping haute couture designer Yiqing Yin. Together, the duo developed a unique concept watch and a moonphase in a limited series of 100 pieces. The highly feminine moon phase collection features a perfectly sized 37mm rose gold case, gem-set bezel, and lilac mother-of-pearl dial decorated with a “pleats” motif, representing Yin’s signature color and pattern. Between twelve and three o’clock, the moon phase is also rendered in lilac mother-of-pearl and diamond accents. While it isn’t an everyday wear, this statement piece represents the unique flair that results when two great artists blend their design languages. 

A Focus on Sustainability: Montblanc 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen CARBO2 LE 1969

For one of its latest releases, Montblanc has put its efforts toward sustainability on full display. With the launch of the limited-edition Geosphere, the brand debuts the development of an entirely new sustainable case material, a nano-fiber composite called CARBO2. Here, Montblanc uses a method that captures CO2 from biogas production and mineral waste from recycling factories, resulting in a powder combined with carbon fiber and used for the watch’s middle case. In recent years, the development of new materials in watchmaking has taken on a new level of weight and importance, allowing the industry to lean into the more technical aspects of watchmaking while keeping in mind the aesthetic of the final product—no small feat. With the 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen CARBO2 LE 1969, Montblanc demonstrates its investment in more sustainable practices by harnessing the research for the use of sequestered CO2 to produce carbon-fiber composites. 

Heritage Revivals: Zenith Defy Revival A3648

When it comes to archival materials—from product sketches to machinery and parts—Zenith has one of the most robust heritage departments. This allows the Maison to bring new life to past designs, like the Defy Revival A3648. This model marks the first time the brand has returned one of its early dive watches. It retains the Defy’s trademark angular case shape and the signature black and bright orange color scheme of the original A3648 from 1969. In addition, the revival is fitted with the same five-link steel bracelet with a folding buckle and maintains 600-meter water resistance. Of course, the modern iteration also has some upgrades in the form of sapphire crystal, Super-LumiNova, and the Elite 670 automatic manufacture movement. Vintage-inspired models remain increasingly popular across the board, but, candidly, their execution can be hit or miss—Zenith is a brand that has consistently achieved the right balance between past and future. 

Independently Made: Nomos Tangente 

Independent watchmaking can take many forms, from singular artisans producing only a few custom timepieces a year to brands that, more broadly, lack ownership from a larger entity. Nomos falls in the latter camp, founded in 1990 by Roland Schwertner, who continues to manage the company today. From its beginnings, Nomos has created playful and accessible watches, and its latest releases fully epitomize this design philosophy. Here, the brand’s flagship model, the Tangente, gets 31 unique color combinations to suit every style preference. What makes this brand particularly notable among independents is its affordable price tag, with most models falling below $5,000. This allows any enthusiast an entry point to independent watchmaking that might otherwise be unattainable from more bespoke artisans. 

Unique Dial Work: Grand Seiko SBGC275

Grand Seiko has built a reputation for its exceptional dials, and now the brand has upped the ante with an entirely new manufacturing technique. The method is put on full display in its new SBGC275. Here, Grand Seiko has employed a patented technique called “Optical Multilayer Coating” that uses a physical vapor deposition process in which several layers of nanoscale film create an effect that results in a different hue based on the angle of view. Depending on the position and the way the light reflects, the watch may appear a bold red, fiery orange, or deep magenta. Observing this watch as it morphs with the body’s natural movement and light is truly a sight to behold—it’s an eye-catching, mesmerizing chameleon for the wrist.

Anniversary Celebrations: A. Lange & Sohne Datograph 

For A. Lange & Sohne, 2024 marks the 25th anniversary of one of its most important models: the Datograph. The Datograph represents the brand’s first chronograph complication—a milestone for any brand. However, integrating a new element to the layout made the model even more significant with the date window positioned prominently at twelve o’clock (giving the model its name). Over the years, Lange has evolved the collection, notably with the Datograph Up/Down in 2012. This variation offered the addition of an increased power reserve of 60 hours and a power reserve indicator at six o’clock, giving the dial a highly symmetrical balance. For the 25th anniversary, Lange offers the next evolution of the Up/Down in 18-karat white gold and a classic blue dial in a run of just 125 pieces. Between its historical significance and timeless design, this limited-issue model will surely become one of the brand’s most highly coveted pieces for generations to come. 

Dress Watches: Parmigiani Fleurier Toric 

Before quiet luxury became a widespread trend, Parmigiani Fleurier fully embodied this philosophy: refined, understated, timeless. Through fads, the brand has held steadfast to this design approach, and with the growing popularity of stealth wealth, Parmigiani is primed to shine. This trend has also paved the way for the resurgence of the dress watch, a category that has been left in the shadow of the sports watch for the past several years. Now, people are ready to elevate their style again with one of the most classic design codes, and Parmigiani’s latest Toric model is the perfect place to start. The brand offers a pure time-only iteration and a rattrapante chronograph. Both are distinct for their dials—designed as cleanly as possible—even with the addition of the complication. 

Non-Round Case Shapes: Patek Philippe Twenty-Four

If there’s one trend prediction where we may have missed the mark, it’s dial shape. Classic round dials seem to have prevailed across brands, and it will be interesting to see if this style continues to dominate throughout the new watches released this year. However, a small handful of brands presented some options for those seeking an alternative to the traditional round shape, including Patek Philippe. This year, Patek’s premiere ladies’ collection, the Twenty-4, notches its 25th anniversary, and its latest incarnation is fit for celebration. Despite its square geometry, the model is instantly recognizable for its rectangular case shape and integrated bracelet that curves perfectly on the wrist. The newest version showcases a stunning purple lacquer dial and diamond accents. In typical Patek fashion, it’s simply breathtaking.