The best Mexican cookbooks of all time

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People in the U.S. eat so much Mexican food in restaurants that you could be fooled into thinking there’s no such thing as Mexican home cooking. You would be wrong. The best Mexican cookbooks lift the veil, revealing a world of lush, inviting, easy recipes that have all the elements you adore in Mexican food. And if you are doing it right, it will be different than you ever knew Mexican food could be.
Prolific researcher and author Diana Kennedy is a complicated figure in the world of Mexican cookbooks. She did champion the cooking of “rural Mexican women, Indigenous women and working-class women,” said Tejal Rao at The New York Times. But she also “never reckoned with her authority over Mexican cuisine as a white British woman.”
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Nonetheless, “My Mexico” is a benchmark, a personal travelogue. Kennedy wanders across the country, picking up a recipe for pozolé de camarón in Jalisco, chuletas de puerco en agridulce (sweet-and-sour pork chops) in Morelia, and chilaquiles en salsa verde from her longtime home state of Michoacán. These are purist dishes that tell the story of place as only cooks from those locales can. ($45, University of Texas Press, Amazon)
Serious food people know that Oaxaca, in central Mexico, has some of the finest cuisine in the country, if not the world. It’s the land of many moles, inspired uses of corn, and sparkling seafood on the coast. And one of the U.S.’s best trumpet-bearers for Oaxacan cuisine has long been Los Angeles’ family-run restaurant Guelaguetza.
In “Oaxaca,” one of the restaurant’s owners, Bricia Lopez, works to “demystify this idea that it takes days to make mole” and other signature Oaxacan dishes, she said to the Los Angeles Times. It’s less anthropology and outsiders looking in and more hands-on cooking. “We are just people, and this is our story. We are not exotic.” ($45, Abrams, Amazon)
With her boundless positivity and irrepressible curiosity, Pati Jinich is a cross-border Pollyanna. She has hosted 15 seasons of her PBS show, “Pati’s Mexican Table,” and her first book, by the same name, is a cheerful invitation to embrace an open-ended version of Mexican cooking. There’s nothing slavishly authentic here, but the recipes’ bones are pure Mexico.
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Burgers are laced with ancho chiles and served with lime aioli. A variety of dried chiles are snipped into a plucky take on spaghetti with garlic and olive oil. And hibiscus flowers appear in a vinaigrette that dresses spinach festooned with goat cheese and caramelized pecans. Cook from “Pati’s Mexican Table,” and you too will be a beacon of optimism. ($35, HarperCollins, Amazon)
Published in 1986, this book is a “straightforward guide” to the “fundamentals of regional Mexican cooking,” said Saveur. Patricia Quintana, a Mexico City chef and author, introduced American readers to the nuances of good Mexican cooking long before the country’s cuisine took over the U.S. in all its varied glory.
“The Taste of Mexico” operates like a greatest hits of Mexico’s regional food styles. Chiles en nogada from Puebla, draped in a creamy walnut sauce, capture the tricolors of the Mexican flag. Including Oaxacan black mole, beer-soused pinto beans from the north, and European-influenced dishes from Mexico City, the cookbook celebrates the “sumptuous breadth” of Mexican cuisine, said Publishers Weekly. ($20, ThriftBooks, Amazon)
Sometimes you want an anchor, rather than the full catamaran, when you aim to understand one of the world’s finest cuisines. In Mexican cooking, those moorings are salsa, moles and their kin. “Truly Mexican” shows you how to prepare them and only them.
You will learn to assemble both cooked and raw tomato salsas and be reminded that endless other traditional salsas have never seen a tomato in their life. Adobos, whether with three chiles or the lone suave guajillo chile, become life-giving purees for marinated fish, chicken and beef shank. Moles are here too in many hues of the color wheel. With “Truly Mexican,” you will gain the “necessary skills to master other recipes,” said New World Review. It’s precisely what one wants from a cookbook. ($38, HarperCollins, Amazon)
A grand self-contained microcosm much like its subject, “Yucatán” hovers at nearly 600 pages, telling the varied food stories of the far southeastern edge of Mexico. The food of the Yucatán Peninsula, aside from a few restaurants in several U.S. cities, is not known well north of the border. And Sterling, who died in 2016, aimed to change that.
This “beautiful and comprehensive” book opens with an ingredient primer, then grabs the reader by the wrist and wanders across cities like Valladolid and Mérida, from coast to inland, and into the region’s pueblos and their singular foods, said Portland Book Review. Few books mark the scope of a place so thoroughly, let alone a locale so underrepresented in the U.S. ($60, University of Texas Press, Amazon)
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